I am perched on a smooth stone, the Buckland River rippling past my feet – clear, shining water, slooshing and swishing, gurgling and splashing over rocks that have been rounded by centuries of washing. Small sections of white water break up this shallow, moving mass, filling the air with the sound of turbulent playfulness; I am mesmerised by the patterns formed by the flow of water over the stones. The river smell is sensuous and fresh. Every breath in, a melding with mother earth; every breath out, a setting aside. A butterfly lands lightly on a glistening pebble, to drink, then flits off again. I follow it with my eyes, and watch it do the same again, closer to the bank. For a moment, I become the butterfly and the feeling of lightness and absence of thought is exhilarating. Returning to my self, I have the sudden feeling I am being watched. I see it, further upstream –a giant turtle. It is a gnarled old tree trunk that has fallen in the water, but looks so real, I check with my bin...